Hyderabadi Mutton Biryani

My Hyderabadi Mutton Biryani is a slow-cooked lamb curry layered with saffron rice and finished in the oven. It comes from the kitchens of the Nizams of Hyderabad, and it's the best known of all the Indian biryanis. The lamb marinates in yogurt and spices overnight, so it's tender by the time it goes into the curry. I cook the curry first and finish everything in the oven, which is easier than steaming it on the hob.

It's a dish for family celebrations and dinner parties, and you can make the curry two days ahead. Biryani has a reputation for being hard work, but this one is easy to follow with the step photos. Serve it straight from the pot with a bowl of raita, and you won't need anything else on the table.

Jump to:

• What is Biryani?
• Pilau vs Biryani
• Which Cut of Meat to Use?
• How Much Rice per Person?
• Why This Recipe Works?
• Ingredients You'll Need
• How to Make Hyderabadi Mutton Biryani?
• Serving Suggestions
• Recipe Tips From the Chef
• Variations
• Storage and Make Ahead Instructions
• Recipe FAQs
• Related Recipes
• Hyderabadi Mutton Biryani

What is Biryani?

Biryani is a classic South Asian rice and meat dish made with fluffy grains of basmati rice, whole spices, caramelized onions, and tender chunks of marinated lamb, chicken, or mixed vegetables.

Hyderabadi biryani comes from the kitchens of the Nizams, who ruled Hyderabad from the 1720s. The story goes that the first Nizam's cooks made it for him on a hunting trip, and it became the dish of the court. Today it's the best known of all the regional biryanis in India.

There are two different techniques to make this celebratory Hyderabadi Biryani dish: Pakki Biryani and Kacchi Biryani.

Pakki Biryani

In a Pakki (Cooked) Biryani, the meat is cooked fully as a curry first, and the rice is parboiled separately. The two are then layered in a heavy pan and finished together on dum, so the rice finishes cooking in the steam and takes on the taste of the curry.

This recipe is the pakki style, and I do the final dum in the oven rather than on a tawa on the hob. The oven heats the pan evenly, so nothing catches on the bottom and you don't need to watch it.

Kacchi Biryani

In a Kacchi (Raw) Biryani, layers of raw marinated meat are alternated with layers of soaked basmati rice and steamed slowly together on low heat, typically for a minimum of an hour.

This method is called the "dum method" in which the biryani is cooked only with the steam that is produced inside the cooking pot sealed with dough. Regardless of the method, the result is a rich, colorful celebration dish of meat and rice.

Pilau vs Biryani

• Biryani is the main dish of a meal, and Pilau (or pulao) is usually a side dish served with something else, like my Mushroom Rice Recipe.

• Biryani is layered: the meat and the rice are cooked separately, then layered and finished together on dum. Pilau is a one-pot dish where the rice cooks in the stock with the meat until the liquid is absorbed.

• Biryani is the more heavily spiced of the two. Pilau is milder, with fewer whole spices and no marinade.

Which Cut of Meat to Use?

I use lamb shoulder, diced into 3 to 4 cm pieces, because it has enough fat to stay moist through the long cook. In Hyderabad most cooks use bone-in shoulder or leg, and the bones give the curry more taste, so use them if your butcher has them and give the meat a little longer to get tender. Leg is leaner and dries out more easily, so don't cut the marinating time short with it.

In India and Pakistan, and at most halal butchers in the UK and the US, mutton means goat, not old sheep. Goat shoulder works just as well in this recipe, and it needs about the same cooking time as lamb shoulder, sometimes a little more.

How Much Rice per Person?

The usual rule for biryani is equal weights of meat and rice, so every spoonful has both. My recipe uses 500 g of lamb to 1½ cups of basmati, which is about 300 g, so it's a little heavier on the meat. For four people as a main course that's plenty, and if you're feeding more, scale both up together and use a wider pan so the rice layer stays shallow.

Why This Recipe Works?

• The meat is fully cooked in the curry before it goes into the oven, so you know it's tender before the rice goes on.

• The final dum happens in the oven, so the heat is even and nothing catches on the bottom of the pan.

• An overnight yogurt marinade keeps the lamb soft through the long cook.

• You can make the curry two days ahead, and it tastes even better after a day in the fridge.

• Step-by-step photos show every stage, so it's easy to follow even the first time.

• Leftovers keep for four days in the fridge and three months in the freezer.

Ingredients You'll Need

Please scroll down to the recipe card below for the full ingredients list with measurements, complete recipe method, recipe notes, and nutritional information.

Meat Marinade Ingredients

• Mutton - I prefer the shoulder for this lamb biryani dish as it has some fat, and remains tender through the cooking process. I cut the meat into 3 to 4 cm ( 1 to 1.5") pieces. If using frozen meat, thaw it overnight before using it. You can use either goat or lamb meat for this recipe.

• Ginger Garlic Paste - This is a great ingredient for Asian-based recipes. It gives the marinade its heat and color. Or use grated garlic and ginger and add another teaspoon of turmeric.

• Yogurt -  The best option is plain natural yogurt which is neither too thick nor too runny. 

• Spices - I use garam masala, turmeric powder, and flaked chili (or chili powder) for the marinade. Adjust the amount of the heat to your taste.

Mutton Curry Ingredients

• Onions - White or pink onions are great for caramelizing. Thinly slice them for even caramelization.

• Ghee - I prefer using ghee or clarified butter because they give the dish a richer taste. You can substitute it with butter or olive oil.

• Chilli - I use fresh green or red chilies for extra heat. You can adjust the amount to your taste or omit it.

• Stock - Lamb stock or Basic Homemade Vegetable Stockadds extra flavor to the curry.

Rice Ingredients

• Basmati rice - Choose the highest quality aged long-grain basmati rice from a well-known brand for the best results. You can buy it from large supermarkets or Indian shops or online.

• Lemon or lime juice - Adding some lemon or lime juice to your cooking water helps prevent the rice from sticking together. 

• Milk and Saffron - Warm the milk and then add the saffron to infuse for about 10 minutes before adding it to the rice.

• Salt - Salt the rice water generously, about a tablespoon. Most of it goes down the sink, and it's the only seasoning the rice gets.

How to Make Hyderabadi Mutton Biryani?

Making biryani from scratch can look daunting because there are a few separate steps, but none of them is hard on its own.

There are many ways to make a good mutton biryani, and I've kept mine as simple as I can without losing the taste.

It wouldn't get any easier than this with my step-by-step instructions and pictures.

Marinate the Mutton

Marinating the meat improves the taste and cuts the cooking time. It's best to marinate the mutton or lamb overnight, or for a minimum of 5 hours.

To prepare the marinade, combine all the ingredients in a large bowl. You can add grated raw papaya to the marinade to tenderize your mutton.

Add the lamb in and mix well until nicely covered with the marinade. Keep it in the fridge covered until you need it.

Cook the Lamb Curry

Place a heavy-bottomed pan with a lid or a Dutch oven on medium heat and melt the ghee. Add the sliced onions and caramelize them until they are dark brown but not burnt. Stir often to avoid them burning and sticking to the bottom of the pan. This will take up to 20 minutes.

Spare half of the browned onions in a bowl and keep them aside to use later for garnishing the Biryani.

Add the cinnamon stick, bay leaves, cardamoms, turmeric, chili, garam masala, and mace (optional) to the pan and sauté for 45 seconds.

Keep stirring to prevent them from burning then add the lamb along with the marinade. Add the liquid, chopped coriander, and chili flakes, and then bring it to a boil.

Put the lid on and cook on low heat for about an hour, or until the meat is tender. Stir occasionally to avoid it sticking to the bottom of the pan.

Pre-Cook the Rice

Prepare and pre-cook the rice as the lamb curry cooks. Wash the rice in a fine sieve under cold running water until the water runs clear. Washing the rice stops the grains sticking together and keeps them fluffy.

Soak the saffron(optional) in warm milk and let it infuse for at least 10 minutes.

When the lamb curry is almost cooked, soak the rice in cold water for 20 minutes then drain the water. Place the rice in a large saucepan with the lime or lemon juice, ghee, cardamom and water, and salt the water generously, about a tablespoon.

Bring it to a boil on medium heat and let it cook for 2 minutes, then test a grain by pressing it between your fingers. It should break easily but still have a firm white center, which means it's about three quarters cooked. Give it another minute if it's still hard, then strain the rice and discard the cooking liquid. It finishes cooking in the oven.

Layer the Biryani

Preheat the oven to 180° C (360° F) and start building the biryani when the lamb is tender. Check the seasoning and add some salt if needed. Spread the precooked rice over the curry with the back of a spoon so the curry is covered.

Garnish the top with browned onions and sprinkle on the saffron-infused milk. Use plain milk if not using saffron. Cover tightly with thick tin foil and place the lid on top of the tin foil. This will help to lock the heat inside the pan and steam the rice.

Place in the preheated oven and cook for 20 minutes. Let it rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Serving Suggestions

The simplest way to serve this biryani dish is to bring the pan or Dutch oven to the table.

Take off the lid and the foil at the table and spoon it straight onto the plates. In Hyderabad it comes with mirchi ka salan, a peanut and sesame gravy with whole green chilies, and dahi ki chutney, a thin yogurt dip with onion and mint. I serve mine with Onion Raita, which does the same job, and a plate of sliced onion, tomato and cucumber with a squeeze of lemon. You don't need bread with it, the rice is the meal.

Don't mix the rice too much before serving, so you keep the white, yellow and orange grains. I leave the whole spices in, but you can pick them out if you'd rather.

If you want more on the table, Crispy Onion Bhaji (Pakora) Recipe to start and Dal Palak (Spinach Dal) on the side both go well with it, and Butternut Squash Curry with Chickpeas covers anyone who doesn't eat meat.

Recipe Tips From the Chef

• Choose the highest quality aged long-grain basmati rice from a well-known brand for the best results.

• Marinating the lamb a day ahead saves you time on the day. The cooking time of the meat depends on the cut and size you use and on how long it marinated.

• You can add grated raw papaya to the marinade to tenderize the mutton.

• Use a Dutch oven or a good quality heavy-based pan to make biryani. Let the biryani simmer gently over low heat for evenly cooked rice.

• Avoid overmixing the rice before serving to preserve the variety of colors the rice acquires during the cooking process.

Variations

These are the things a Hyderabadi cook would add that I've left out of my method to keep it simple. Add any of them and it'll still work the same way.

• Fresh mint - Scatter a handful of chopped mint leaves over the curry before the rice goes on. It's in nearly every Hyderabadi biryani, and it cuts through the richness.

• Crisp fried onions (birista) - Instead of saving half the caramelized onions, deep fry a thinly sliced onion until crisp and brown and scatter it over the top layer. Shop-bought crispy fried onions work fine here.

• Kewra or rose water - A few drops sprinkled over the rice before it goes into the oven give the biryani its restaurant smell. Use a light hand, as too much tastes of soap.

• Ghee on top - Drizzle a tablespoon of melted ghee over the rice with the saffron milk. It keeps the top grains separate and glossy.

• Whole spices in the rice water - Add a teaspoon of shahi jeera (caraway), 3 cloves, a bay leaf and a star anise to the rice water with the cardamom, and fish them out with the rice or leave them in.

• Goat instead of lamb - Use goat shoulder in the same amount. It's the traditional choice, and it needs about the same time to get tender, sometimes a little longer.

Storage and Make Ahead Instructions

Leftovers keep for up to 4 days in an airtight container in the fridge, and they freeze well for up to 3 months. Let the biryani cool fully first, then divide it into portions so it chills and reheats faster.

To reheat, put a portion in a pan with a tablespoon of water, cover it and warm it over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, so it steams rather than fries. In the microwave, cover the bowl with a damp paper towel and heat it in short bursts. Thaw frozen biryani in the fridge overnight before reheating.

To get ahead, marinate the lamb the day before and make the curry up to 2 days ahead; it tastes better after a night in the fridge. Cook the rice just before you layer the biryani, as parboiled rice goes sticky if it sits. You can layer the whole thing a few hours ahead, keep it in the fridge, and add 10 minutes to the oven time.

Recipe FAQs

Related Recipes

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Did you make this recipe? Please let me know how it turned out! Leave a comment below and tag @cookingorgeous on Instagram and hashtag it #cookingorgeous.

I hope you enjoy the process of making this Hyderabadi Mutton Biryani as much as you enjoy eating it! 🙂

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